The Explorations of Cpt. James Cook

Moderate breezes at West and West−North−West and Clear weather. At 4 p.m. Tack'd and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack'd and stood off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack'd and stood in, being about 10 Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to yesterday at noon bore South−South−West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.

A Gentle breeze between the South−West by West and West with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack'd in 108 fathoms 3 or 4 miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the North−West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South−West, distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West; Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late blowing weather.

Fresh breezes between the South by West and South−West. Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from the Mast Head bearing South−South−West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard. At Noon, Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.

Fresh Gales at South−West, and for the most part clear weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack'd and Stood to the South−East until 8 a.m., and then Tack'd and stood to the Westward with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.

Strong Gales at West and West−South−West with Squalls at times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West, distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses, having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the North−West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9 Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry and repair the Damaged Sails.

At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather, Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South−West being the same North−Westermost land we have seen before, and which I take to be the Northern Extremity of this Country, as we have now a large swell rowling in from the Westward which could not well be, was we covered by any land on that point of the Compass.

Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and stood to the North−East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water.

At 10 it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails; at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and stood again to North−East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to blow very hard at North−North−West with heavy squalls attended with rain, this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard. At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the Coast.

Moderate breezes of Wind between the North−West and North and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.

Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set yesterday at noon bore North−West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.

Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12 degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other, being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186 degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay. The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs, Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it, which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea.

As barren as this land appears it is not without inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes. The Cavalle Isles bore South−East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore North−West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South−West by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.

P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South−West by West and West−South−West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance lie West−North−West and East−South−East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay I have named Doubtless Bay; the wind not permitting us to look into this Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from us West−North−West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up at West−North−West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.

At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South−East by East, distant 8 Leagues, and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and the North−West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the Main, bore North−West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 44 minutes South.

Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North−North−West, with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands. They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7 Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North.

We were here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to South−West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East. Keept standing to the West−North−West and North−West until 10 A.M., at which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore South−East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.

gutenberg.P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather. At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the Westward.

P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North−North−West, with which we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock and went immediately clear without receiving any perceptible damage.

Just before the man in the Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms, but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half−a−mile West−North−West from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South−East side of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9 o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze springing up at North−North−West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett bore South−South−East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34 degrees 59 minutes South.

P.M., had the winds at South−West and West−South−West, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new.

By the evening all our Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for the Ship's Company's breakfast.

At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at South−East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes South.

This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands, on account of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the South−West side of South−Westermost Island, that lies on the South−East side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it; besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish. Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several other sorts.

Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line.

The inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another, although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head. They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people themselves have finished.

It is high water in this Bay at full and change of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea−Coast, that the flood comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to the South−East or South−South−East, as the Land lays.

Gentle breezes at North−West, West−North−West, and West; very fair weather.

P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon one of the Islands on the North side of the one the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m. sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander.

In our way we passed by a point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed, which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles. After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place, and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but these we did not go to. We afterwards went a little way into the Country, and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much incumbered with wood.

We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least that we have seen.

P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle breezes from the Westward.

A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.

Winds at North−West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m. hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one Turn of water and but a very few fish.

Winds at North−North−West a Gentle breeze. At 3 p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship. In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought us on board sooner than we intended.

A.M., the wind being still contrary, I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.